Anti-Aging: Retinol, Retin-A and AHA/BHA… Combine Them or Not?

Are you using a night treatment that includes the active ingredient retinol? Or the prescription strength form Retin-A? And are you using a leave on chemical exfoliant (cream, lotion, liquid or gel) to remove the layer of dead skin cells on your face (so that awesome retinol, a cell communicating ingredient, can really penetrate the skin)? Would you happen to be applying them both in the evening?

Retinol and Retin-A do their best work at night. While your body is at rest and in repair/rejuvenate mode. Used during the day these products can cause reactions in the skin from the sun, such as redness and burning. They can also be neutralized by sun exposure. So you aren’t really doing yourself any favors by using these ingredients during the day..

But if you are using anAHA or BHA product in the evening along with your retinol or Retin-A, you may not be getting the benefits you think you are.

There are dermatologists and chemists claiming that retinol or Retin-A and AHA/BHA used together may reduce the efficacy of each other, and possibly cancel out the benefits of each other completely. And there are others who say this isn’t true. Confused? Me, too.

What do I do? Take the safe road on this one. It’s simple, really. In the morning cleanse, tone, apply AHA or BHA, serum with antioxidants (such as vitamin C) and a day cream with high quality moisturizers (such as hyalauronic acid or shea butter) along with an SPF of 15 or greater. The SPF can be in your day cream, which I like best, or a separate product. But that means an extra step in the routine if it is a separate product. Just don’t skip it. I mean it, retinol and Retin-A will make your skin more sun sensitive and you could very easily burn. What does sunburn mean? Sunburn=Damaged Skin. Isn’t that what you are trying to avoid and/or remedy?

Then for evening all you need to do is follow the same steps omitting the AHA or BHA. Swap out the day moisturizer for a night treatment cream containing retinol, antioxidants and those same quality moisturizers I mentioned earlier. If you do use retin-A, apply that to dry skin and let sink in. Then apply a night moisturizer that does not contain retinol (retinol on top of Retin-A would be too much on the skin, causing stinging, burning and redness). Easy, right? Now jump into bed and let your products do their work.

Just thought a post on this was a good idea  as I have seen it brought up on a few skin care forums, and it makes sense to me. How we use our anti-aging skin care is as important as what we are using. However not all medical skin care professionals agree. But since it is being brought up and discussed I feel it is a good idea to make the minor change in your skin care routine until we know for certain if the vitamin A products and AHA/BHA products are compatible for application at the same time. That way we are not potentially wasting our good products.

Have you been applying AHA or BHA at the same time as your retinol or Retin-A? Have you noticed results that please you or a lack of results? Share, we all want to know!

Photo by taro23

  • http://www.beauty-and-the-blog.com JeffrieAnn

    Hi, I’m not familiar with that particular product. But you say it is a “cream”. Which suggests that it is in a moisturizing base. So why would you need another cream on top? If it was prescription Retin A or some other medical skin care product then yes, you may possibly need an additional moisturizer. But I’m guessing that Skin Sentuals is a cosmetic line. I hope your product is not in a jar but in a pump or tube. Retinol degrades very quickly when exposed to light and air.
    Additionally, since writing this post more info has come available and apparently there is little to suggest that you can not use both retinol and aha at the same time.
    You may want to read my post on cosmetic packaging before investing in more products that contain “skin actives” such as retinol or antioxidants.
    http://www.beauty-and-the-blog.com/wrinkle-reducing-skin-care/anti-aging-skin-care-in-poor-packaging/

  • Cjgehring

    good advice except….i can’t even find a night moisturizer that does NOT contain either retinol or aha’s. i want to start using the skin ceuntuals 1% retinol cream i just received, but i don’t have any (& can’t find any) night moisturizers that do not contain either retinol or aha’s what do people use, as a night cream, over retinol????   cj

  • http://www.beauty-and-the-blog.com JeffrieAnn

    I recently have begun to follow Paula’s advice. I can’t use Retin-A, my skin doesn’t tolerate it. But I use retinol products that are OTC made by Paula’s Choice. And I find the results to be very good. I use the whole “Resist” line for anti-aging. I think the jury is still out on the whole issue but I am going to follow Paula’s advice until I find solid proof that AHA deactivates vitamin A. I wasn’t before, but the “Resist” line includes both ingredients and recommends layering.

  • Kim

    I have read both sides regarding AHA’s deactivating retin a.  Paula Begoun (the Cosmetics Cop) states that you should apply retin a on top of AHA at night.  I do this and am really happy with the results.  However I hope that it’s not just the AHA that’s giving me results if the retin a is indeed deactivated.

  • http://www.beauty-and-the-blog.com JeffrieAnn

    Thanks for your contribution…. Almost a blog post itself. I disagree with the eye cream though. Eye cream is just a way for manufacturers to sell you one more product. Any good facial moisturizer will work just as well on the eye area as it does anywhere else on the face. And I do prefer a leave on AHA or BHA. I feel it is more effective when it stays on the skin for more than a few minutes or less of cleansing.

  • skin geek

    Hi there I’m a beauty therapist and agree with all you have posted above.
    A typical regieme could be the following :

    AM
    Cleanse with AHA or BHA why ?
    because AHA’s lower the skins natural ph level to pentrate the protective barrier and effectively cleanse. our skins ph is on average around 5.5 – 5.7 ph good AHA cleansers will lower that to around 4.5 ph

    tone or condition – why ?
    because the ph level of your skin needs to be returned to around 5.5 to protect your skin and restore the natural barrier you changed whilst cleansing.

    Serum and Moisterise – why ?
    To hydrate the skin. serums will be things like copper peptides, Alpha lipoic’s etc steer away from retinols or Vit A products during the day unless they are at low dosages and your spf is a habit…better still leave your retinols until the evening and use a decent dosage !

    Eye cream – why ?
    The skin surrounding our eyes are thinner. The skin here dosn’t have natural moisturisation because there are no hair follicules or sweat glands on or directly under our lids.

    Sunscreen spt 20+ or barrier spf – why ?
    To protect the skin from free radical damage caused by the sun. Barriers are an option for people who work outdoors or in environments such as airconditioning and heating. Barriers form a protective film over the skin and good ones lock in moisture.
    Without suscreen, your whole beauty regeime is compromised !!!!

    PM
    Cleanse with AHA or BHA
    Tone or condition
    Serum (retinols, rejuvenating, AHA/BHA products) alternate AHA and retinols if using both.
    Moisteriser (AHA) lactic is a good ingredient for night creams
    Eye creams are a definite.

    If in doubt about anything in your regieme talk to your therapist, we are trained to know our products, ingredients and your particular needs based on your skin, lifestyle and current concerns.

    All the best !!!!

  • http://www.beauty-and-the-blog.com JeffrieAnn

    Thanks for your comment. Would you care to share how lemons are used in a skin care routine? Do you use them?

  • Anonymous

    Vitamin A is also called retinol. There are many ways to tackle the problem with aging at home.You can use lemons as part of your anti aging treatment.